Chardonnay, Pegasus Bay
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StyleFull & Opulent
Proprieta Sperino is situated in the small town of Lessona, near Biella in northern Piemonte. Owned by Paolo De Marchi from the Tuscan estate Isole e Olena in Chianti Classico, it passed into the De Marchi family through their relative, Felice Sperino, a passionate viticulturist and professor in Turin. Paolo dreamed of revitalising the Sperino estate from the 1970’s but it is only in the last few years that his work in Chianti Classico has allowed him to. His elder son, Luca, runs it with Paolo’s help and together they are planning to increase the vineyard area to 8 hectares from its current 5 ½. In the 19th Century, Nebbiolo from this area was better known than Barolo, so Paolo and Luca have planted primarily this Piemontese classic. Vespolina and Croatina are the other principle varieties in this zone, together with Erbaluce di Caluso which produces a dry, scented, minerally white. The wine ages in barrique, barrel and oval 15 hectolitre casks for 30 months. The finest, mineral and aromatic side of the Nebbiolo grape.
Proprieta Sperino Lessona 2009, Piemonte, Italy
Lessona is a small DOC in north-west Piedmont which produces Nebbiolo on some of the most acidic, sandy soils known to the wine world. How useful is it to know that? Don't answer. Partly because of the soils, the wines tend to be a little gentler than their better-known Langhe brethren. The Sperino 2009 has a spicy, earthy sweetness, prune and cherry fruit, touches of cocoa and sandalwood, fine, dry tannins.
Fiona Beckett, The Guardian, 9th August